Sunday, 18 November 2012

American Girl Meets British Boy Part 4: Liverpool is in our Ears and in our Eyes.

To read the earlier entries, click these links:


After our hectic arrival in Liverpool in Part 3, We awoke the next morning to muffled shout of "Row!"

We got up and opened the window to see a rowing club in session on the water, the wind was bitterly cold and rain was drizzling down.

Erica was dumbfounded how those boys could be out there in this weather. Since it was December and we were a little further north now, the Texan girl, who was used to blazing hot temperatures in the summer and lukewarm winters was suddenly out of her element.

Of course, Erica had come quite prepared for this eventuality but when you're there it is quite different. Her teeny-tiny nosey was red and she was constantly chilled to the bone. She gratefully drank her morning cup of tea and we headed for a continental breakfast of cereal and toast with various Marmalades and Jams.

By the time we got out of the hotel the rain was pissing down and we decided to forgo the cost of a taxi and sprint to the Beatles Story Museum in Albert Dock.....



The Beatles story is a must see on any trip to Liverpool
The Beatles story museum tells the story of the Beatles from their humble childhood years right through to their meetings and formation to their respective solo careers. It's a must for any Beatles fan to tour. I will write a more in-depth review of our visit in a later blog.

After our visit we decided to head to Mathew Street....



Mathew Street proudly proclaims itself the birthplace of The Beatles.

We wandered up the cobblestoned street, marvelling and wondering what this place must have been like in 1960. I could almost feel the thump of the beat beneath my feet as we stood and let the rain drizzle on us. We planned to lunch at the Grapes pub but first we walked quickly up the street to....

The Cavern Club! Unfortunately, the Beatles weren't playing that lunchtime or nighttime :-(


The Cavern is one of those places that is considered almost holy to Beatles fans. This club was where they ushered in a new era for civilization, Liverpool was screaming about the Beatles while the rest of the UK was idly tapping their feet to The Shadows and Cliff Richard.


The Stairwell....

The famous mural on the stage....

Erica had such a great time she got up and rocked out on the stage like her hero John Lennon did so many years ago....



We stayed for a little while but there was nothing going on there until the evening. We ascended the stairs with a promise to return and Erica got her picture taken with John Lennon.....

He was pretty stoned too.
We decided to take a walk down to the Grapes and have some lunch....


The Grapes, for those not familiar with it, is a pub the Beatles used to hang out in before and after their gigs at the Cavern, there's also a famous picture taken of them sitting in there.....


And is largely unchanged to this day, except for the wallpaper and all the Beatles memorabilia.......


Erica sat where John was sitting and I sat where Paul was sitting. Pete and George didn't get any takers! We had a delicious lunch there and they serve excellent food. Erica tried her first ever Bangers and Mash washed down with a pint of Cider.....


And I had chicken and chips....


Which you can't see cause I ate it all! HA!

After our lunch we rushed as fast as our speeding boots could carry us to get on the National Trust bus to John & Paul's houses. Now, photography is forbidden INSIDE the houses but we got some great shots of the outside.

251 Menlove Avenue. The house John Lennon grew up in.
Going into Lennon's house was an UNBELIEVABLE experience. Especially as the National Trust have restored it to it's 1950's glory. We stood in the hallway and I half-expected a teenage John Lennon to come to the top of the stairs and ask "Who the fucking hell are you lot?!" and his Auntie Mimi to be in the kitchen cooking something.

The caretaker showed us round and we were told not to sit on the furniture and they told the stories about them that we'd heard many times before but here we were, actually THERE in the kitchen where John had eaten many a bacon butty and in the front room where he'd sat and played his harmonica his Uncle George gave him, probably doing Mimi's head in.

Then we were taken upstairs and shown the bathroom where John bathed after coming home late at night and then finally we were shown to that one room that had the Lennon stamp all over it. His bedroom.

Standing there in the front bedroom, you can't help but wonder what John would think all these years later. If he had been allowed to live until death had taken him naturally would he have come back here to see his house restored to how he remembered it?

I imagined him giving us a guided tour and standing in his bedroom telling us "You know, I had many a wank over Brigitte Bardot in here".

The caretaker allowed us a few minutes to look around by ourselves and we stayed in John's bedroom and Erica, even though it probably wasn't ACTUALLY his bed, sat down on it. I joined her. I thought about Lennon listening to his radio here on cool summer nights. Playing his guitar with George and Paul downstairs. So much history.

I got up and went over to his window which looked out onto Menlove Avenue and there were about 30 people standing by the gate taking pictures of the house and probably me looking out the window. I flashed them a peace sign and then flipped them off which earned me a smack from Erica who had become familiar with the tradition of sticking two fingers up.

These people had all come from the "Magical History Tour" bus. We came downstairs and marvelled at the back door that Mimi would make George Harrison come through because of his weird dress sense. We went to the front porch and sang a few bars of 'Blue Moon' like Lennon & McCartney had done so many years ago.



Then it was time to get back on the bus, I was by now carrying Erica as she had passed out from all the Fangirling. We got on the bus and headed over to Forthlin road....

20 Forthlin Road. The house Paul McCartney spent his teenage years in.

20 Forthlin road was another great experience. This is the house where Lennon and McCartney wrote so many of their early songs together and demoed rough versions for McCartney's father Jim. Again, no photography of any kind allowed in the house. I hear John, the tour guide, is no longer with the National Trust which is sad as he was a very good guide and likeable fellow.

Again we had the guided tour and then were allowed to look around on our own. My favourite part was the living room. Just thinking how many times the young John and Paul would sit with their notepads and guitars playing and smoking Typhoo Tea from Jim McCartney's pipe.

John & Paul work on 'I Saw Her Standing There' in the living room at 20 Forthlin Road



 Also we got to look out the window from where Paul's brother Mike took the famous shot of Paul sitting in the garden that now adorns the cover of Macca's 2005 album Chaos and Creation in The Backyard.



Also being in the backyard of 20 Forthlin Road was purely magical as THIS was taken there...



After the tour was over we got back on the bus and just sat in silence. We couldn't believe we had been in the houses of musical gods. We visited a few more places after that on whistle-stop tours before boarding our train and heading back to my house.....


Liverpool Town Hall, Where the Beatles famously greeted fans on the Balcony on their triumphant return to Liverpool in 1964 and John performed a Nazi salute.

The Eleanor Rigby statue


At the Beatles shop.

Art College where John Lennon and Stuart Sutcliffe attended


Penny Lane is in my ears and in my eyes

Forever....



We came back for a quick visit in the dark before we left!
And that's it for this adventure! We hope you all enjoyed it, Those who are still reading it? Anyone? More adventures will undoubtedly follow soon! So stay tuned to this blog!



Monday, 12 November 2012

American Girl Meets British Boy Part 3: Arriving In Liverpool

After our rather hectic week gadding about London we booked ourselves two tickets on the Virgin Pendolino departing Euston station in London and arriving at Lime Street station in the exalted land of Liverpool. The only true Birthplace of The Beatles. Don't believe all that Oshkosh, Wisconsin nonsense!

We were late getting to Euston. The train was pulling out of the station as we got there and we ran alongside the train doing this....


If 'A Hard Day's Night' was playing it would have been exactly like the film except we were in colour and the train was a Virgin Pendolino.

We finally scrambled on board and made our way to our seat as the train gathered speed. Two people were in our seats. Erica went all Malcolm Tucker on them as she was very tired from all that running. They still wouldn't budge. They sat there stunned into a sort of coma as I pulled her off them. We sat down in a couple of unoccupied seats and watched the English countryside turn from south to north.

After 5 hours of countryside and stopping, we finally arrived in the late afternoon.....

"And she never walked down Lime street anymore..."
We hurried outside and got into a taxi and then got out and into another one and ordered the driver to head to the docks, the location of our hotel for our stay. En route, the driver correctly guessed we were Beatles fans and I whispered to Erica

"I bet he went to school with Paul McCartney and/or is related to him somehow"

After a moment the driver spoke "I went to school with Paul McCartney, I'm his fourth cousin twice removed" Erica gave me a shocked look.

"It's all in the mind" I replied to her and she narrowed her eyes at me.


When we got there we hurriedly checked in and discovered that it was a nice, charming little hotel. Erica was beaming when the receptionist spoke to us in her very thick Liverpool accent but the smile soon faded when she realised she couldn't understand a word the receptionist was saying so it was down to me to translate.

"Are ya here for Ken Dodd?" the receptionist asked us with a smile "No, we're here for the Beatles!" Erica proudly announced.

The receptionist looked confused "Don't get many of their fans up here!" she said with a wink.

"I had sex with John Lennon y'know" the receptionist casually continued.

 "Oh for gods sake, no you didn't! you're about the same age as me!" I said exasperated.

She smiled and continued to chew her bubblegum and then blew bubble right into my face.

We left the receptionist picking little pink bits of gum out of her hair and went to our room. It was just what we needed. We crashed on the little double bed for a while and I took some pictures out the window....

Queen's Dock in Liverpool
We decided that since it was getting dark we wouldn't go out anywhere that night. The fact that it gets dark at 4pm in the winter in Britain alarmed Erica. It was also bitterly cold and rather damp out and since she is a Texan who is used to long, scorchio summers this was also something of a shock.

We spotted a McDonalds across the road and, feeling hungry, headed over there for dinner. We got in there and the whole place was decked out with massive photos of the Beatles in India in 1968.

I was honoured that the staff of McDonalds had thought to do that for us. Such kind people. I smiled at Erica who took her place at a table next to this photo of John Lennon.....


...Which had been blown up a fair few sizes.

There were also various quotes from them at the time scrawled over the walls.

As we were eating another young couple sat down and the girl looked around and said to her boyfriend "What is all this about?" and the boyfriend just shrugged and said "The Beatles," before tucking into his Big Mac.

The Liverpool Docks with the Liver building in the background.


After our fast food supper, at which we were stared at incessantly by the Beatles, which I wouldn't have minded had they actually been there staring at us eating, we headed back to the hotel and sat up watching QI and going over our little leaflets that we'd picked up at reception.

The next day was going to be hectic and we didn't want to be tired so we turned off the lights and fell fast asleep.

Monday, 5 November 2012

American Girl Meets British Boy Part 2: Gadding About London

At the end of Part 1 the American girl and I had just met and were descending into the tunnels of Victoria Station's Underground.  The saga continues as we are now traveling to Bayswater and to our hotel.

The London Underground
When we checked into our hotel in London we discovered that it was comfortable, clean and nice. Erica had been fearing the worst since she had never been overseas before and the word on the street back home is that England was full of bad food, bad teeth and bad ideas such as free healthcare and calling Diapers "Nappies".

The bad food part almost was confirmed when Erica and I breakfasted in our hotel the next morning. We got cereal as you can very rarely go wrong with cereal. We sat down and as I was eating my bowl of Cornflakes I noticed Erica pushing hers away with a sour look on her face.

"I'm not very hungry" she whispered when I frowned at her.

I could tell that there was something more. We had a long day of sightseeing ahead and it was very likely we were going to cram in a lot before we even thought about lunch. I spooned a couple of her cornflakes into my mouth and she looked at me in disgust, her expression quickly turned to surprise when I nearly spat out the offensive cornflakes.

It seemed while she'd been up at the breakfast bar she hadn't realised that of the two pitchers of milk, one was warm for the people who like warm milk in their coffee and the other was ice cold for the cereals.

"What the hell? this is warm milk!" I sputtered and she looked at me in puzzlement  

"You mean you don't eat it with warm milk?!" she said, her fear melting away before my eyes. 

"Not bloody likely! You used the wrong milk!" I said back and we started laughing.

Her laugh was a thank-god-I'll be-able-to-eat-in-this-country laugh.

After that rather funny breakfast we took a walk from our hotel to Hyde Park. Hyde Park is one of the largest Royal Parks in Central London and is famed for Speaker's Corner: An area where people can debate or rant about anything, provided its within the law. I persuaded Erica to try a sausage roll from the bakery chain Gregg's. She didn't mind it but she said she was not a big fan of sausage.

She could have fooled me! ;-)

After that we hopped on a tube to Westminster. The first stop was the Houses of Parliament and the clock tower that houses Big Ben. Erica was getting nervous and peppering me with questions about where we were going to come up when we exited and if I knew where it was. The station is right next to Parliament so we came up facing Westminster Bridge.

"So where's Big Ben?" she asked all suspiciously as if I was leading her astray. I pointed upwards and she slowly raised her head following my finger and squinting in the light.....

Big Ben is actually the name of the Bell in the clock tower.
"WOW! CUTE!" she exclaimed and started snapping pictures like the little tourist she was. We walked across Westminster bridge to get a better view of the palace. She insisted I take her picture as if she thought I wouldn't have done so anyway...

Holding on to her hat as we braved the wind and rain for our adventure.
After a little walk down by the Thames we decided to go to the one place we'd both been waiting to go: Abbey Road Studios in St. John's Wood. We caught the circle line to Baker Street and hopped on the Jubilee Line to St. John's Wood. As soon as we left the station we walked with ever increasing anticipation down Grove End Road.

Erica was squeezing my hand tightly and smiling her white toothed perfect smile as we neared the corner where we turned onto Abbey Road and saw the Pelican Crossing surrounded by people like us. Fans of the Beatles taking photos and walking across it and stopping in the middle to pose for the picture. Annoying the many drivers who have to stop for them to do it.

Abbey Road on the morning of the Beatles album cover photo shoot in 1969.
An out take from the session.

The world famous cover.
Me going the wrong way with shoes on. I'm very much alive.

Abbey Road is as busy today as it was in 1969. This is Erica crossing during a brief lull in the traffic.


After just stopping and staring and soaking up the history for a while we turned our attention to the studios, just mere yards from the crossing. We didn't have a recording session booked so we couldn't go in but we were content to take pictures of the outside and the perimeter wall that was signed by everyone in the world.

Somebody did a wonderful Lennon portrait on the gate pillar.

Abbey Road entrance
After our tour of Abbey Road we decided to go visit Paul at his house nearby on Cavendish Avenue. He wasn't there but his gardener was. So we took some pictures of his gate.

Paul's gate and the top of his townhouse.
Cavendish Avenue
After this we were ready to go to another site of Beatles legend and lore and where they played their final live appearance ever......

Savile Row
3 Savile Row housed the head offices and basement recording studios of Apple Corps from 1968 to the mid 1970's. On the 30th January 1969 the Beatles played an impromptu concert on the roof of the building which was included as part of their 'Let It Be' film. It proved to be the Beatles last live performance.

3 Savile Row. Currently unoccupied.
"Don't let me down!"
From what I can ascertain, Savile Row is a Grade II Listed building so it's under some protection, however, it is amazing how nobody has seen the potential to re-open this building as a museum to the Beatles and possibly even re-open the basement studios. If you happen to have a few million handy and are a Beatles fan, contact me at beatlesthruyears@hotmail.co.uk and let's do this!

Erica and I were absolutely knackered after this and we dragged our feet to the nearest tube station and did whistle stop tours of the other London Landmarks.....

The Royal Albert Hall

Harrods

Buckingham Palace
Westminster Abbey

The Tower of London

Tower Bridge
It was a crazy little tour but in Part 3 we'll be going where many Beatle fans have gone before.......

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